Specialty Apparel Design and Production by Eva Garcia: My Work in Corsetry

As a child and teenager, I was enthralled by all things Victorian. As a hobby I would create Victorian inspired costumes and bonnets, and naturally, I wanted a corset as well. My first few attempts at creating corsets were fairly successful, especially given the fact that I was patterning them myself, with no knowledge of pattern making. The construction was challenging, of course. But after a few attempts I was gaining an understanding of it.

An early attempt at drafting and constructing a corset
Overbust Corset, Cotton Twill with Inset Piping
Eva Garcia, 2002

In 2006 I began an internship, which later became a four year employment, with Dark Garden Unique Corsetry in San Francisco. This small, independently run business was started by Autumn Adamme in 1989. Autumn designs and creates incredibly detailed, hand made corsets and bridal gowns. She has her own celebrity following, and has worked with Dita Von Teese, Christina Aguilera, Pamela Anderson and Kelly Osbourne.

In my time there, I did have the chance to work on two corsets for Dita Von Teese. The corsets were constructed by Autumn. She designed and pinned a layout with antique lace, which I then painstakingly hand stitched, using nearly invisible stitches with very fine silk thread. It was quite a long process.

I hand stitched this antique lace using silk thread and invisible stitches.
Corset made by Autumn Adamme for Dita Von Teese, 2010.


Detail of my hand stitching of fine antique lace. Corset made by Autumn Adamme for Dita von Teese, 2010.

My work at Dark Garden largely consisted of creating custom bridal ensembles. I would do everything from draft the garments to create a mockup, assist at the fittings, cut and sew the garments from fashion fabric, and finish the pieces.

Dark Garden's clientele is fairly eclectic, ranging from the simple blushing bride, to those who were darker and more gothic. Most ensembles were Victorian inspired, with large bustles and elaborate trimmings. Some were more fantasy inspired, with fairies and vampires being a popular theme among our creative brides.

I also had the opportunity to learn the Dark Garden method of corset construction during my employment. For a while I stitched mockups for clients. I also constructed a number of corsets for myself.

Baroque Style Corset, Silk Jacquard
Pattern and design by Dark Garden
Constructed by Eva Garcia, 2009

I left Dark Garden when I moved away in 2010. I am still creating corsets, however. I drafted and constructed this Edwardian style corset in 2012, which has a longer silhouette that extends to the hips. I modified the true Edwardian style by adding built in cups to define the bust.

Corsetry is a very technical skill that takes time and patience to master. I am grateful for the time I worked, and learned, at Dark Garden. Although there is always more knowledge to gain about this unique craft, I feel I have acquired a solid foundation in what is truly an art form.