Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Kelly, Bridal Inspired by the Late Nineteenth Century



Kelly walked into the small bridal boutique I was working in, searching for her wedding dress. We didn't have what she was looking for, but we started chatting. She was hoping to find a late nineteenth century dress with a bustle, but knew that this was a tall order. I mentioned that I actually was the in-house seamstress, and she inquired about making a custom dress.

After another month or so of unsuccessful searching, she gave me a call, and we made a plan to go ahead with a custom bridal gown. We worked together to create a sketch. She wanted some antique elements mixed in with a contemporary flair. A large bustle in the back, small apron drape in the front. An asymmetrical cut out at the hem to show her legs and shoes. Small puffed sleeves and a standing collar made from lace.

We chose a cream silk dupioni for it's body and sheen. It created a beautiful bustle. The collar was a bit of a challenge, as she had chosen a very fine rayon lace. How to make a fine lace into a standing collar? I backed it with silk organza and ran a thin hat wire through the edges.

Another challenge came when figuring out the closure for the dress. Kelly wanted a single garment, rather than a skirt and bodice. How does one get into a gown with a center back closure of covered buttons, that opens into an attached skirt with bustle? I had fun with this. The center back bodice opened down to the skirt, which then opened along the waist via snaps to the left side skirt. The front drape also closed with snaps on the left. The perfect combination of modern and antique closures; a zipper, snaps and buttons. The unique closure added to the charm of the gown.

Snaps close the bodice along the waist to the side skirt zipper
Kelly and I both were very pleased with the finished gown. The birdcage veil she chose to wear added another touch of modernity. The fabric, design and shape of the gown worked together to create a lovely contemporary version of the Victorian bride.



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